Digital fashion media and digital emotions
Rise of reflective emotions in China’s digital ecosystem
Abstract
La ricerca offre una panoramica sull’ecosistema digitale in cinese, con particolare riferimento al ruolo dei media nel sistema moda. All'interno di questo vibrante contesto, il segmento emergente dei netizen della Generazione Z si pone nei confronti dei contenuti Web e dei social network in modo entusiasta e giocoso, guidando le tendenze di mercato emergenti. Infatti, il ruolo dei media nel fashion system contemporaneo sta rimodellando la comunicazione, il retail e il consumo quotidiano evi media sono diventati sempre più centrali per ridefinire pratiche ed esperienze nella moda. Questo fenomeno è stato denominato “mediatizzazione”, dapprima sviluppatosi nelle capitali occidentali della moda e poi implementato principalmente nei mercati asiatici. In particolare, la ricerca si concentra su come le emozioni degli utenti svolgano un ruolo cruciale nella mediatizzazione della moda in Cina, come motore di trasformazione per comprendere i valori del prodotto e del marchio. Si evidenzia una differenziazione tra le diverse “emozioni digitali” e il modo in cui l'utente le sta vivendo. Da un lato le emozioni viscerali e comportamentali giocano un ruolo decisivo nelle tendenze emergenti contemporanee, caratterizzando le campagne di moda e le strategie di e-commerce dei principali marchi del sistema moda internazionale. D'altro canto, si evidenzia un interesse emergente per le emozioni riflessive, concentrandosi sulla comprensione e l'esperienza di storie e valori coerenti del sistema-prodotto. Come è successo nel fashion system occidentale, anche i brand emergenti cinesi stanno sviluppando esperienze riflessive nella moda, valorizzando valori legati al Patrimonio Culturale e alla qualità del prodotto che superano la consueta UX screen-based. Pertanto, si riscontra un nuovo potenziale nella mediatizzazione della moda che punta sulle emozioni riflessive coerenti e consistenti rispetto ai valori del sistema-prodotto.
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- Uhlirova, M. (2013). 100 years of the fashion film: Frameworks and histories. Fashion Theory, 17(2), 137-157.
- Van der Meij, M. G., Broerse, J. E. W., & Kupper, F. (2017). Conceptualizing playfulness for reflection processes in responsible research and innovation contexts: A narrative literature review. Journal of Responsible Innovation, 4(1), 43-63.
- Walther, J. B. (1992). Interpersonal effects in computer-mediated interaction: A relational perspective. Communication Research, 19(1), 52-90.
- Webster, A. (2021, March 22). Burberry designed character skins for China’s biggest video game. The Verge. Retrieved from https://www.theverge.com/2021/3/22/22340775/honor-of-kings-burberry-skin-fashion-video-games
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- Xiaoyi, L. (2020). Retro fashions: Recycling used clothing: A trend in China. Global Times. https://www.globaltimes.cn/content/1204277.shtml
- Yun, H. and Ko, E. (2021). Comparative Analysis of Seven Digital Fashion Weeks. Journal of Fashion Business, 25(3), 36-50.
- Zhang, D. (2019). How Chinese Internet Celebrity Influences consumer attitude to purchase on E-commerce. Uppsala Univesriteit
- Zhijun, L. (2016) “Consumption of emotions”. Chines Clothes, (9), 100-101.
- Anderson, K. C., Knight, D. K., Pookulangara, S., & Josiam, B. M. (2014). Influence of hedonic and utilitarian motivations on retailer loyalty and purchase intention: A Facebook perspective. Journal of Retailing and Consumer Services, 21, 773-779. doi:10.1016/j. retconser.2014.05.007
- Babin, B. J., Darden, W. R., & Griffin, M. (1994). Work and/or fun: Measuring hedonic and utilitarian shopping value. Journal of Consumer Research, 20(4), 644-656. https://doi.org/10.1086/209376
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- China Entertainment and media Outlook in China (2016-2020), PWC. Retrieved from https://www.pwccn.com/en/entertainment-media/em-china-outlook-nov2016.pdf
- Derks, D., Fisher, A. H., & Bros, A. E. R. (2008). The role of emotion in computer-mediated communication: A review. Computers in Human Behavior, 24(3), 766-785.
- Desmet, P., & Hekkert, P. (2007). Framework of product experience. Journal of Design, 1(1), 57-66.
- Digital Economy Development in China (2020). China Academy of Information and Communications Technologies (CAICT). http://www.caict.ac.cn/english/research/whitepapers/202007/P020200728343679920779.pdf
- Evans, C. (2003). Fashion at the edge: Spectacle, modernity and deathliness. Yale University Press.
- Fashionchinaagency.com. (2021). How luxury brands reach Chinese Millennials with digital. Fashion China Agency. https://fashionchinaagency.com/how-luxury-brands-reach-chinese-millenials-with-digital/
- Findlay, R. (2015). The short, passionate and closeknit history of personal style blogs. Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body and Culture, 19(2), 157-178.
- Fry, A., Goretti, G., Ladhib, S., Cianfanelli, E. and Overby, C. (2016). Advanced Craft integrated with Saper Fare. The role of intangible values and the centrality of the artisan in high-quality 21th century artisanship. Cuaderno Journal, Emerging Processes in Design Practice and Design Education, University of Palermo Buenos Aires (Argentina)
- Geng, L., & Li, X. (2018). An empirical study on the relationship between consumption emotions and brand loyalty. Chinese Journal of Communication, 11(3), 267–288. doi:10.1080/17544750.2018.1445118
- GMA (2021). How Luxury Brands Reach Chinese Millennials with Digital Retrieved from https://fashionchinaagency.com/how-luxury-brands-reach-chinese-millenials-with-digital/
- Gonzales, A.L & Hancock, J.T. (2008) Identity Shift in Computer-Mediated Environments, Media Psychology, 11(2), 167-185.
- Greeven, M. J. (2004). The evolution of high-technology in China after 1978: Towards technological entrepreneurship. ERIM.
- Hu, C., & Tan, L. (2020). Fast fashion and sustainability amongst Chinese millennials. In J. E. Richard & D. Kadirov (Eds.), ANMAC 2019 Wind of Change Conference Proceedings. https://researchers.mq.edu.au/en/publications/fast-fashion-and-sustainability-amongst-chinese-millennials
- Jingting, Z. (2019). Emotions and consumption of the netizens in China’s digital economy. Revista Latinoamericana de Estudios sobre Cuerpos, Emociones y Sociedad, 11(30), 89-98.
- Kangas, M. (2010). Creative and playful learning: Learning through game co-creation and games in a playful learning environment. Thinking Skills and Creativity, 1(5), 1-15
- Keane, M. A. (2004). Brave new world: Understanding China’s creative vision. International Journal of Cultural Policy, 10(3), 265–279.
- Kramer, A. D. I., Guillory, J. E., & Hancock, J. T. (2014). Experimental evidence of massive-scale emotional contagion through social networks. Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences, 111, 8788–8790. doi:10.1073/ pnas.1320040111
- Lessig, L. (2008). Remix: Making art and commerce thrive in the hybrid economy. Penguin Press.
- Lim, S. (2020). Emerging platforms: what is Xiaohongshu and how can brands leverage it? https://www.thedrum.com/news/2020/03/16/emerging-platforms-what-xiaohongshu-and-how-can-brands-leverage-it
- Lin, L. (2021, March 31). China Fashion Week: Fashion digitization, an industry gamechanger. CGTN. https://news.cgtn.com/news/2021-03-31/China-Fashion-Week-Fashion-digitization-an-industry-gamechanger-Z4G3hmFcCA/index.html
- Lindgren, T. (2014). Fashion system Shanghai: The advent of a new gatekeeper. In Foltyn, J L & Fisher, R (Eds.) Proceedings of 5th Global Conference: Fashion - Exploring Critical Issues. InterDisciplinary.Net, United Kingdom, pp. 1-8.
- Linfante, V., & Pompa, C. (2021). Space, time and catwalks: Fashion shows as a multilayered communication channel. ZoneModa Journal, 11(1), 15-42.
- Liu, Z. & Song, G. (2018). The influence of smartphone on the change of lifestyle. Studies in Philosophy of Science and Technology, 35(1), 111–116.
- Lotto, B. (2017), Enhancing Human Attachment: Digital emotions. In Digital Emotional Intelligence, a customer experience framework to understand and anticipate human emotion across physical and digital channels. Avery Dennison.
- Mckinsey “The State of Fashion 2021” Report.https://www.mckinsey.com/~/media/mckinsey/industries/retail/our%20insights/state%20of%20fashion/2021/the-state-of-fashion-2021-vf.pdf
- Majgaard, G. (2014). The playful and reflective game designer. Electronic Journal of E-Learning, 12 (3), 271-28.
- Menkes, S. (2010, May 18). Fashion films become the hottest new accessories. The New York Times. https://www.nytimes.com/2010/05/18/fashion/18iht-fcurves.html
- Norman, Donald A. (2005). Emotional Design: Why We Love (or Hate) Everyday Things. Basic Books.
- Oliver Wyman Report (2021). https://www.oliverwyman.com/our-expertise/insights/2021/apr/wholesale-investment-banks-analysis-2021.html
- Pan, Y. (2019). Prada’s problems in China are deeper than the economic slowdown. Jing Daily-The Business of Luxury in China. https://jingdaily.com/prada-problem-china/
- Park, S.C. (2014). Ichpedia, a case study in community engagement in the safeguarding of ICH online. International Journal of Intangible Heritage
- Peng, Z. (2019). Why luxury brands should care about online gaming in China. Jing Daily-The Business of Luxury in China. https://jingdaily.com/why-luxury-brands-should-care-about-online-gaming-in-china/
- Prunesti, A. (2016). Social media e comunicazione di marketing. Presidiare la Rete, costruire relazioni e acquisire clienti innovando l’esperienza utente. Franco Angeli.
- Rocamora, A. (2016). Mediatization and digital media in the field of fashion. Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body and Culture, 21(5), 505-522.
- Rogers, Y. and Price, S. (2004). The role of mobile devices in facilitating collaborative inquiry in situ. World Scientific Publishing Company & Asia-Pacific Society for Computers in Education.
- Silbert, J. (2021). Doraemon pals around with Gucci models in collaborative lookbook. Hypebeast. https://hypebeast.com/2021/1/doraemon-gucci-chinese-new-year-collection-campaign
- Smith, T. (2019). Do Chinese consumers care about sustainable fashion? Jing Daily-The Business of Luxury in China. https://jingdaily.com/do-chinese-consumers-care-about-sustainable-fashion/
- Song, J., & Qu, H. (2018). How does consumer regulatory focus impact perceived value and consumption emotions? International Journal of Contemporary Hospitality Management, 31(1), 285-308
- Statista’s Digital Market Outlook (2021). https://www.statista.com/outlook/digital-markets
- Statistical Report on Internet Development in China - CNNIC (2014). China Internet Network Information Center. https://www.cnnic.com.cn/IDR/ReportDownloads/201411/P020141102574314897888.pdf
- Suen, Z. (2021). Three Ways Brands Are Tapping China’s Digitally Native Luxury Shoppers. Business of Fashion. Retrieved from https://www.businessoffashion.com/briefings/china/three-ways-brands-are-tapping-chinas-digitally-native-luxury-shoppers
- Sun, Y., Wang, R., Cao, D., & Lee, R. (2021). Who are social media influencers for luxury fashion consumption of the Chinese Gen Z? Categorisation and empirical examination. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management. doi.org/10.1108/JFMM-07-2020-0132
- Tong, J. (2015). The formation of an agonistic public sphere: Emotions, the Internet and news media in China. China Information, 29(3), 333-351.
- Uhlirova, M. (2013). 100 years of the fashion film: Frameworks and histories. Fashion Theory, 17(2), 137-157.
- Van der Meij, M. G., Broerse, J. E. W., & Kupper, F. (2017). Conceptualizing playfulness for reflection processes in responsible research and innovation contexts: A narrative literature review. Journal of Responsible Innovation, 4(1), 43-63.
- Walther, J. B. (1992). Interpersonal effects in computer-mediated interaction: A relational perspective. Communication Research, 19(1), 52-90.
- Webster, A. (2021, March 22). Burberry designed character skins for China’s biggest video game. The Verge. Retrieved from https://www.theverge.com/2021/3/22/22340775/honor-of-kings-burberry-skin-fashion-video-games
- Williams, K. A. (2014). Recut film trailers, nostalgia and the teen film. In K. M. Baton & J. M. Lampley (Eds), Fan CUITure: Essays on participatory fandom in the 21st century (pp. 47-60). McFarland & Co.
- Xiaoyi, L. (2020). Retro fashions: Recycling used clothing: A trend in China. Global Times. https://www.globaltimes.cn/content/1204277.shtml
- Yun, H. and Ko, E. (2021). Comparative Analysis of Seven Digital Fashion Weeks. Journal of Fashion Business, 25(3), 36-50.
- Zhang, D. (2019). How Chinese Internet Celebrity Influences consumer attitude to purchase on E-commerce. Uppsala Univesriteit
- Zhijun, L. (2016) “Consumption of emotions”. Chines Clothes, (9), 100-101.
Pubblicato
2022-12-31
Come citare
Goretti, G. (2022). Digital fashion media and digital emotions: Rise of reflective emotions in China’s digital ecosystem. AND Rivista Di Architetture, Città E Architetti, 42(2). Recuperato da https://and-architettura.it/index.php/and/article/view/597
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