Digital fashion media and digital emotions
Rise of reflective emotions in China’s digital ecosystem
Abstract
The research offers an overview on the digital landscape in China, relating on the role of media in fashion system. Withing this vibrant ecosystem, the rising segment of Gen Z netizen face web contents and social networking in an enthusiastic and playful way, driving up the ongoing market trends. In fact, the role of media in contemporary fashion system is reshaping communication, retail and everyday consumption andmedia have become increasingly central to redefine practices and experiences in fashion. This phenomenon has been named “mediatization”, in a first time developed in Western fashion capitals and then mainly implemented in Asian markets. In particular, the research focuses on how user emotions play a crucial role in fashion mediatization in China as a transformative driver to understand product and brand values. We highlight on a differentiation in between the different digital emotions and how the user is experiencing them. On one hand visceral and behavioural emotions play a consistent role in contemporary emerging trends, characterizing the fashion campaigns and ecommerce strategies of main international fashion brands. On the other hand, we highlight on an emerging interest on reflective emotions, focusing on understanding and experiencing consistent stories and values. As happened in Western fashion system, also emerging Chinese brands are experiencing reflective experiences in fashion enhancing values related to Cultural Heritage and product quality that overcome the usual screen-based UX. Thus, we highlight on a new potentials in fashion mediatization enhancing consistent reflective emotions related to product-system.
References
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- Uhlirova, M. (2013). 100 years of the fashion film: Frameworks and histories. Fashion Theory, 17(2), 137-157.
- Van der Meij, M. G., Broerse, J. E. W., & Kupper, F. (2017). Conceptualizing playfulness for reflection processes in responsible research and innovation contexts: A narrative literature review. Journal of Responsible Innovation, 4(1), 43-63.
- Walther, J. B. (1992). Interpersonal effects in computer-mediated interaction: A relational perspective. Communication Research, 19(1), 52-90.
- Webster, A. (2021, March 22). Burberry designed character skins for China’s biggest video game. The Verge. Retrieved from https://www.theverge.com/2021/3/22/22340775/honor-of-kings-burberry-skin-fashion-video-games
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- Xiaoyi, L. (2020). Retro fashions: Recycling used clothing: A trend in China. Global Times. https://www.globaltimes.cn/content/1204277.shtml
- Yun, H. and Ko, E. (2021). Comparative Analysis of Seven Digital Fashion Weeks. Journal of Fashion Business, 25(3), 36-50.
- Zhang, D. (2019). How Chinese Internet Celebrity Influences consumer attitude to purchase on E-commerce. Uppsala Univesriteit
- Zhijun, L. (2016) “Consumption of emotions”. Chines Clothes, (9), 100-101.
- Anderson, K. C., Knight, D. K., Pookulangara, S., & Josiam, B. M. (2014). Influence of hedonic and utilitarian motivations on retailer loyalty and purchase intention: A Facebook perspective. Journal of Retailing and Consumer Services, 21, 773-779. doi:10.1016/j. retconser.2014.05.007
- Babin, B. J., Darden, W. R., & Griffin, M. (1994). Work and/or fun: Measuring hedonic and utilitarian shopping value. Journal of Consumer Research, 20(4), 644-656. https://doi.org/10.1086/209376
- Bu, L., Chung, V., Leung, N., Wang, W. L., Xia, B., & Xia, C. (2021). The future of digital innovation in China: Megatrends shaping one of the world’s fastest evolving digital ecosystems. McKinsey. https://www.mckinsey.com/featured-insights/china/the-future-of-digital-innovation-in-china-megatrends-shaping-one-of-the-worlds-fastest-evolving-digital-ecosystems
- China mobile Internet 2013 overview, Umeng Insight Report, March 2014.
- China Entertainment and media Outlook in China (2016-2020), PWC. Retrieved from https://www.pwccn.com/en/entertainment-media/em-china-outlook-nov2016.pdf
- Derks, D., Fisher, A. H., & Bros, A. E. R. (2008). The role of emotion in computer-mediated communication: A review. Computers in Human Behavior, 24(3), 766-785.
- Desmet, P., & Hekkert, P. (2007). Framework of product experience. Journal of Design, 1(1), 57-66.
- Digital Economy Development in China (2020). China Academy of Information and Communications Technologies (CAICT). http://www.caict.ac.cn/english/research/whitepapers/202007/P020200728343679920779.pdf
- Evans, C. (2003). Fashion at the edge: Spectacle, modernity and deathliness. Yale University Press.
- Fashionchinaagency.com. (2021). How luxury brands reach Chinese Millennials with digital. Fashion China Agency. https://fashionchinaagency.com/how-luxury-brands-reach-chinese-millenials-with-digital/
- Findlay, R. (2015). The short, passionate and closeknit history of personal style blogs. Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body and Culture, 19(2), 157-178.
- Fry, A., Goretti, G., Ladhib, S., Cianfanelli, E. and Overby, C. (2016). Advanced Craft integrated with Saper Fare. The role of intangible values and the centrality of the artisan in high-quality 21th century artisanship. Cuaderno Journal, Emerging Processes in Design Practice and Design Education, University of Palermo Buenos Aires (Argentina)
- Geng, L., & Li, X. (2018). An empirical study on the relationship between consumption emotions and brand loyalty. Chinese Journal of Communication, 11(3), 267–288. doi:10.1080/17544750.2018.1445118
- GMA (2021). How Luxury Brands Reach Chinese Millennials with Digital Retrieved from https://fashionchinaagency.com/how-luxury-brands-reach-chinese-millenials-with-digital/
- Gonzales, A.L & Hancock, J.T. (2008) Identity Shift in Computer-Mediated Environments, Media Psychology, 11(2), 167-185.
- Greeven, M. J. (2004). The evolution of high-technology in China after 1978: Towards technological entrepreneurship. ERIM.
- Hu, C., & Tan, L. (2020). Fast fashion and sustainability amongst Chinese millennials. In J. E. Richard & D. Kadirov (Eds.), ANMAC 2019 Wind of Change Conference Proceedings. https://researchers.mq.edu.au/en/publications/fast-fashion-and-sustainability-amongst-chinese-millennials
- Jingting, Z. (2019). Emotions and consumption of the netizens in China’s digital economy. Revista Latinoamericana de Estudios sobre Cuerpos, Emociones y Sociedad, 11(30), 89-98.
- Kangas, M. (2010). Creative and playful learning: Learning through game co-creation and games in a playful learning environment. Thinking Skills and Creativity, 1(5), 1-15
- Keane, M. A. (2004). Brave new world: Understanding China’s creative vision. International Journal of Cultural Policy, 10(3), 265–279.
- Kramer, A. D. I., Guillory, J. E., & Hancock, J. T. (2014). Experimental evidence of massive-scale emotional contagion through social networks. Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences, 111, 8788–8790. doi:10.1073/ pnas.1320040111
- Lessig, L. (2008). Remix: Making art and commerce thrive in the hybrid economy. Penguin Press.
- Lim, S. (2020). Emerging platforms: what is Xiaohongshu and how can brands leverage it? https://www.thedrum.com/news/2020/03/16/emerging-platforms-what-xiaohongshu-and-how-can-brands-leverage-it
- Lin, L. (2021, March 31). China Fashion Week: Fashion digitization, an industry gamechanger. CGTN. https://news.cgtn.com/news/2021-03-31/China-Fashion-Week-Fashion-digitization-an-industry-gamechanger-Z4G3hmFcCA/index.html
- Lindgren, T. (2014). Fashion system Shanghai: The advent of a new gatekeeper. In Foltyn, J L & Fisher, R (Eds.) Proceedings of 5th Global Conference: Fashion - Exploring Critical Issues. InterDisciplinary.Net, United Kingdom, pp. 1-8.
- Linfante, V., & Pompa, C. (2021). Space, time and catwalks: Fashion shows as a multilayered communication channel. ZoneModa Journal, 11(1), 15-42.
- Liu, Z. & Song, G. (2018). The influence of smartphone on the change of lifestyle. Studies in Philosophy of Science and Technology, 35(1), 111–116.
- Lotto, B. (2017), Enhancing Human Attachment: Digital emotions. In Digital Emotional Intelligence, a customer experience framework to understand and anticipate human emotion across physical and digital channels. Avery Dennison.
- Mckinsey “The State of Fashion 2021” Report.https://www.mckinsey.com/~/media/mckinsey/industries/retail/our%20insights/state%20of%20fashion/2021/the-state-of-fashion-2021-vf.pdf
- Majgaard, G. (2014). The playful and reflective game designer. Electronic Journal of E-Learning, 12 (3), 271-28.
- Menkes, S. (2010, May 18). Fashion films become the hottest new accessories. The New York Times. https://www.nytimes.com/2010/05/18/fashion/18iht-fcurves.html
- Norman, Donald A. (2005). Emotional Design: Why We Love (or Hate) Everyday Things. Basic Books.
- Oliver Wyman Report (2021). https://www.oliverwyman.com/our-expertise/insights/2021/apr/wholesale-investment-banks-analysis-2021.html
- Pan, Y. (2019). Prada’s problems in China are deeper than the economic slowdown. Jing Daily-The Business of Luxury in China. https://jingdaily.com/prada-problem-china/
- Park, S.C. (2014). Ichpedia, a case study in community engagement in the safeguarding of ICH online. International Journal of Intangible Heritage
- Peng, Z. (2019). Why luxury brands should care about online gaming in China. Jing Daily-The Business of Luxury in China. https://jingdaily.com/why-luxury-brands-should-care-about-online-gaming-in-china/
- Prunesti, A. (2016). Social media e comunicazione di marketing. Presidiare la Rete, costruire relazioni e acquisire clienti innovando l’esperienza utente. Franco Angeli.
- Rocamora, A. (2016). Mediatization and digital media in the field of fashion. Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body and Culture, 21(5), 505-522.
- Rogers, Y. and Price, S. (2004). The role of mobile devices in facilitating collaborative inquiry in situ. World Scientific Publishing Company & Asia-Pacific Society for Computers in Education.
- Silbert, J. (2021). Doraemon pals around with Gucci models in collaborative lookbook. Hypebeast. https://hypebeast.com/2021/1/doraemon-gucci-chinese-new-year-collection-campaign
- Smith, T. (2019). Do Chinese consumers care about sustainable fashion? Jing Daily-The Business of Luxury in China. https://jingdaily.com/do-chinese-consumers-care-about-sustainable-fashion/
- Song, J., & Qu, H. (2018). How does consumer regulatory focus impact perceived value and consumption emotions? International Journal of Contemporary Hospitality Management, 31(1), 285-308
- Statista’s Digital Market Outlook (2021). https://www.statista.com/outlook/digital-markets
- Statistical Report on Internet Development in China - CNNIC (2014). China Internet Network Information Center. https://www.cnnic.com.cn/IDR/ReportDownloads/201411/P020141102574314897888.pdf
- Suen, Z. (2021). Three Ways Brands Are Tapping China’s Digitally Native Luxury Shoppers. Business of Fashion. Retrieved from https://www.businessoffashion.com/briefings/china/three-ways-brands-are-tapping-chinas-digitally-native-luxury-shoppers
- Sun, Y., Wang, R., Cao, D., & Lee, R. (2021). Who are social media influencers for luxury fashion consumption of the Chinese Gen Z? Categorisation and empirical examination. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management. doi.org/10.1108/JFMM-07-2020-0132
- Tong, J. (2015). The formation of an agonistic public sphere: Emotions, the Internet and news media in China. China Information, 29(3), 333-351.
- Uhlirova, M. (2013). 100 years of the fashion film: Frameworks and histories. Fashion Theory, 17(2), 137-157.
- Van der Meij, M. G., Broerse, J. E. W., & Kupper, F. (2017). Conceptualizing playfulness for reflection processes in responsible research and innovation contexts: A narrative literature review. Journal of Responsible Innovation, 4(1), 43-63.
- Walther, J. B. (1992). Interpersonal effects in computer-mediated interaction: A relational perspective. Communication Research, 19(1), 52-90.
- Webster, A. (2021, March 22). Burberry designed character skins for China’s biggest video game. The Verge. Retrieved from https://www.theverge.com/2021/3/22/22340775/honor-of-kings-burberry-skin-fashion-video-games
- Williams, K. A. (2014). Recut film trailers, nostalgia and the teen film. In K. M. Baton & J. M. Lampley (Eds), Fan CUITure: Essays on participatory fandom in the 21st century (pp. 47-60). McFarland & Co.
- Xiaoyi, L. (2020). Retro fashions: Recycling used clothing: A trend in China. Global Times. https://www.globaltimes.cn/content/1204277.shtml
- Yun, H. and Ko, E. (2021). Comparative Analysis of Seven Digital Fashion Weeks. Journal of Fashion Business, 25(3), 36-50.
- Zhang, D. (2019). How Chinese Internet Celebrity Influences consumer attitude to purchase on E-commerce. Uppsala Univesriteit
- Zhijun, L. (2016) “Consumption of emotions”. Chines Clothes, (9), 100-101.
Published
2022-12-31
How to Cite
Goretti, G. (2022). Digital fashion media and digital emotions: Rise of reflective emotions in China’s digital ecosystem. AND Journal of Architecture, Cities and Architects, 42(2). Retrieved from https://and-architettura.it/index.php/and/article/view/597
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Articles
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