Benefits without value, value without benefits

Sustainable Fashion a perspective for people, places and cultures

Abstract

The impact on the environment caused by the consumption of non-renewable resources for the production of consumer goods prompts design to intervene with strategies that implement sustainable and inclusive processes to mitigate effects and evaluate alternatives. Human capital is at the centre of a revolution that presupposes shared and co-creative practices developed within the dynamics of social change to generate widespread value. Thanks to its ability to embrace social change, design for Fashion stimulates innovation along the entire value chain, from creation/design to production to distribution and consumption models. The University of Campania Luigi Vanvitelli 'sTexLAB, with its Fashion Design and Textile Design laboratories, collaborated on a social tailoring project called "S'ARTE Progetto Sartoria Remida Napoli." The partnership with Tessuti di Sondrio DiV. Marzotto collaborated on a fashion collection, "Sustainable Fashion Landscapes," demonstrating the feasibility of production and consumption models inspired by the goals of the UN 2030 Agenda, including points 4, 5, 11, and 12. The fashion collection is born from the recovery of surplus stock reintroduced into a creative recycling circuit, configuring a new life to materials otherwise destined for landfill, representing a co-creative ecosystem based on upcycling, sharing, and social and design innovation. A system of relationships based on the integration between university education, voluntary associations, and national stakeholders is established, joined to form a network in the multilevel perspective. The challenge is focused on strengthening the dialogue between academia and manufacturing realities, which collaborate in upcycling by rethinking the sustainable textile and clothing system. Thus, the change in the Fashion Industry towards more sustainable approaches is planned, defining a new value chain that is made explicit through the realization of co-benefits, i.e., from the transition of fashion as a mass-media phenomenon causing waste and pollution to a social phenomenon involving people, groups, communities, and institutions, in the definition of new business models.

References

- Armstrong, C.M., LeHew, M.L.A. (2011) Sustainable Apparel Product Development: In search of a New Dominant Social Paradigm for the Field Using Sustainable Approaches. Fashion Practice, V. 3, Issue 1, pp. 29-62.
- Aus, R. (2011). Trash to trend: Using upcycling in fashion design [Unpublished doctoral dissertation]. Estonian Academy of Arts. https://www.digar.ee/arhiiv/en/books/15357
- Cia Diffusion. (2019) The textile-clothing industry. Available at: https://www.ciadiffusione.it/gesFiles/Filez/1537430803K100643. pdf. Read in: May 15, 2021.
- Ellen MacArthur Foundation. A new textile economy: Redesigning the future of fashion. 2017. Available at: http://www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/publications). Read in: May 12, 2021.
- Eppinger, E. (2022). Recycling technologies for enabling sustainability transitions of the fashion industry: status quo and avenues for increasing post-consumer waste recycling. SUSTAINABILITY: SCIENCE, PRACTICE AND POLICY 2022, VOL. 18, NO. 1, 114–128. https://doi.org/10.1080/15487733.2022.2027122
- European Commission (2018). Directive (EU) 2018/851 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 30 May 2018 Amending Directive 2008/98/EC on Waste (Text with EEA Relevance). Brussels: European Commission.http://data.europa.eu/eli/dir/2018/851/oj.
- European Environment Agency (EEA) (2021). Textiles in Europe’s Circular Economy. Copenhagen: EEA. https://www.eea.europa. eu/publications/textiles-in- europes-circular-economy.
- Fantin, V. et al. (2021). Sustainable and circular design, production, distribution and consumption systems - Textile - Clothing
- Fashion ChainPosition paper. 2020. Available at: https://www.react-project.net/wp-content/uploads/sites/41/2020/05/5-ICESP-Position-paper-filiera-tessile-e-moda.pdf. Read in: 10 May 2021.
- Fashion Revolution (2021). Why Do We Need a Global Fashion Revolution? Leek, Staffordshire: Fashion Revolution. https://www.fashionrevolution.org/about/ why-do-we-need-a-fashion-revolution
- Fischer, A., & Pascucci, S. (2017). Institutional incentives in circular economy transition: The case of material use in the Dutch textile industry. Journal of Cleaner Production, 155, 17–32. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2016.12.038
- Fletcher, K. (2014). Sustainable fashion and textiles. 2nd ed. London: Routledge.
- Global fashion agenda. Pulse of the Fashion Industry Report (2018). Available at: https://www2.globalfashionagenda.com/publicati ons/#pulseofthefashionindustry. Read on: 30/04/2021
- Gorz, A. (2007). Écologica. Editions Galilée. Parigi
- Leite, P.R. (2009). Logística Reversa: Meio Ambiente e Competitividade. San Paolo: Pearson.
- Manzini, E., & Coad, R. (2015). Design, When Everybody Designs: An Introduction to Design for Social Innovation (Design Thinking, Design Theory). The MIT Press.
- Morseletto, P. (2020). Goals for a circular economy. Resources, conservation and recycling, v. 153, p. 104553
- Norman, R., Ramiréz, R. (1993). From a value chain to value constellation: designing interactive strategy. Harvard Business Review, Jul-Aug;71(4):65-77.
- Pil, F.K., Holweg, M. (2006) Evolving from Value Chain to Value Grid. Mit Sloane Management Review, Vol. 47 No. 4.
- Ranzo, P., Di Roma, A., Sbordone, MA. (2017). Il design come mediatore dei processi di networking. MD Journal, Vol.: 4, Acocella Alfonso.
- Sanches, R.A., Duarte, A.Y.S., Sbordone, M.A., Ranzo, P. (2021). Tecnologia da malharia: processos e principais produtos. Moda Palavra e-periódico, v. 14, p. 51-72.
- Sandin, G., & Peters, G. M. (2018). Environmental impact of textile reuse and recycling. A review. Journal of Cleaner Production, 184, 353–365. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2018.02.266
- Sen, A. (1984). Well-being, agency and freedom: the 1984 Dewey Conferences. Journal of Philosophy, 82 (April 1985); and Capability and well-being. WIDER conference paper.
- Sen, A. (2003). Development as capacity expansion. In: Fukuda-Parr S., et al. Readings in Human Development. New Delhi and New York: Oxford University Press.
- Wang, Y. (2006). Recycling in Textiles. Cambridge: Woodhead Publishing.
Published
2022-12-31
How to Cite
Sbordone, M. A., Montagna, G., Amato, C. I., Orlacchio, M., & Rega, A. (2022). Benefits without value, value without benefits: Sustainable Fashion a perspective for people, places and cultures. AND Journal of Architecture, Cities and Architects, 42(2). Retrieved from https://and-architettura.it/index.php/and/article/view/595